Author Topic: Boat Stand/Blocking Placement  (Read 1348 times)

340mopar

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 73
  • 1980 SCORPION 260-SL
Boat Stand/Blocking Placement
« on: February 25, 2016, 01:52:50 pm »
How would I find....


The Proper blocking points to support a 260.

I need to drop my trailer from underneath to do some repair work...

MYSTERY
1980 SCORPION 260-SL

stinger390x

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 184
Re: Boat Stand/Blocking Placement
« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2016, 11:31:19 pm »
Tow stands (adjustable types like jack stands) or a couple of 8x8 blocks , one on each side of bottom of sponson at rear just under the transom. The second wooden blocks can be set under the centre section of hull near the centre stringer.
This tri-pod system is all you need to hold the boat for any sanding of other work on the lower half of the hull.
You only need the three pressure points.

You can see from my boat I put supports under the two stringers as mine is a 390X but the 260 only needs the support under the main stringer near the door/ dash area


340mopar

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 73
  • 1980 SCORPION 260-SL
Re: Boat Stand/Blocking Placement
« Reply #2 on: March 02, 2016, 03:44:44 pm »
Yes, mine is a 260 ...

I am hoping to block it up from under the trailer and lower the trailer down.

I have one bunk that was loose and flipped sideways. (bought it like that)

I want to flip it back and put new bolts in.  Then jack the trailer back up and remove blocks.

I love that 390X!
« Last Edit: March 08, 2016, 08:15:32 am by 340mopar »
MYSTERY
1980 SCORPION 260-SL

stinger390x

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 184
Re: Boat Stand/Blocking Placement
« Reply #3 on: March 07, 2016, 07:19:13 pm »
Sounds interesting.
I did this once before with my buddies Carver. It was on blocks in the back yard of the marina and we had to put a trailer under it. here is what we did, you just do it in reverse.

The transom had huge blocks under it so it was quite stable. We started by jacking up the hull with a floor jack and a big heavy flat piece of wood for cushioning. We backed the trailer up close to the floor jack and then lowered slowly. We re-set the jack a bit farther back and repeated the lift slightly, just enough to move the trailer a few more inches back. Repeated again until we were right up against the rear blocks. We then raised the boat at the rear, removed the blocks and gently loaded it on the trailer ready for splash.


If your going to take it off the trailer start with the rear blocking and raise the hull like I said with a floor jack and blocking wood and gradualy move trailer slowly in sections blocking as you go.
You should be able to do it in less then 10 minutes or so.

Don't know about your Marina but ours has a great big woodpile with huge blocks and lots of cut 2x6 and 2x10's so we hae a plethora of blocking material to choose from.

If you ever drive by a highway construction area and they are taking out the old wooden supports for the guardrail and replacing them with metal ones, ask the forman if you can grab the wood. They usually say yes as it saves them the hassle and you get all kinds of 8x8 free wood blocking material. I got a whole truckload of the stuff for nothing!!!


Have fun and play safe!
« Last Edit: March 07, 2016, 07:24:25 pm by stinger390x »

340mopar

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 73
  • 1980 SCORPION 260-SL
Re: Boat Stand/Blocking Placement
« Reply #4 on: March 08, 2016, 08:17:41 am »
at a glance (this weekend) I believe the Center Stringer is right over a roller, so blocking from that exact point is about impossible ...
MYSTERY
1980 SCORPION 260-SL