Chris Craft Stingers Forums

General Category => Chris Craft Stingers => Topic started by: 340mopar on August 20, 2015, 01:01:13 pm

Title: Stern Drive Question
Post by: 340mopar on August 20, 2015, 01:01:13 pm
When transporting, do you trim the Stern Drives up, down, other?
Title: Re: Stern Drive Question
Post by: archareon on August 21, 2015, 01:55:04 am
when i transport my stinger over a large distance , i take them of... but i've got TRS drives (6 bolds- gearbox in the boat)
Title: Re: Stern Drive Question
Post by: 340mopar on August 21, 2015, 10:55:23 am
This trip is almost entirely interstate, and about 4 hours worth of driving.
Title: Re: Stern Drive Question
Post by: stinger390x on October 07, 2015, 09:01:11 pm
NEVER leave the dock until you lift the drives! You might bust a skeg or chip your props or they might begin to spin in mid air as your cruising down the road.

If you are local then leaving props on are ok but I have seen long distance haulers pulling their boats down the Interstates with the props spinning in the wind. This is very hard on the bearings and will usually cause failure in the water. If you have a smaller craft some people even put the shifter into gear before leaving the dock.
I own a larger offshore model so I remove my props completely for long hauls to Poker Runs. I leave the props on if I'm just going down the road of popping into the nearby lake a few miles away.
Title: Re: Stern Drive Question
Post by: 340mopar on October 08, 2015, 10:57:17 am
This is great information... the trips I would make would be about 1, 1-1/2 or 3 hours depending on which lake...
Title: Re: Stern Drive Question
Post by: 340mopar on November 16, 2015, 09:47:29 am
I can not say I have ever seen Transom savers used with the 260 (and sim styles) ... input?
Title: Re: Stern Drive Question
Post by: stinger390x on January 05, 2016, 10:12:25 am
I didn't tow very much except for one weekend in July when I went to Lake Erie for the Pottahawk Pissup.
In that case YES...I raised the drives, placed my brackets and lowered the drives to rest on the rods. The rear was tied down with proper straps and I drove down to the Lake (about one hour or so) and removed it all to launch.

If your going any distance it is a good idea to use the rods (brackets) as an trip of more that a half hour is hard on the hydraulics and gimbles if your going down a lousy road. The drives bounch=e in mid air. At least in the water the boat is cushioning each blow of wave hopping etc, but on the trailer it is not advantageous to have them bouncing all over the place.

Just my two cents....
Title: Re: Stern Drive Question
Post by: 340mopar on January 05, 2016, 03:52:30 pm
Thanks!

My Lake trips will be 1, 1-1/2,or 3 hours away...

SO I guess I should get the proper equipment
Title: Re: Stern Drive Question
Post by: stinger390x on January 12, 2016, 10:38:33 am
One other tid-bit of information is that I never rely on the winch for single strap holding the nose. I use a strap, not a wire, on my winch.
No matter... I still put an extra strap on the nose to the tonge. I welded a small loop on the tounge for this strap and it holds the nose down onto the "rest pad" on the tonge.
The rear straps are both held to the two rails of the trailer at the rear ( a must have item in Ontario) or its a huge ticket and fine!

In essense...never trust just the winch strap/cable alone. Add a second tounge strap, not only to pull forward as does the winch, but also to pull downwards for bounce along the road.
Title: Re: Stern Drive Question
Post by: 340mopar on January 12, 2016, 11:21:41 am
Until I redo the stanchion I am stuck with what I have ... and the winch is long since gone.

Until I replace it, I have a double chain that I keep on the front (mostly it was for the trip home) that you could hang your boat from (the 390).

all said and done I Will have both a winch and strap (or the like) in place.

great point!!! (feel free to give advice as you like, I am grateful not offended)

James
Title: Re: Stern Drive Question
Post by: stinger390x on January 13, 2016, 09:25:01 pm
I used to build trailers and do all kinds of modifications years ago when I had my shop.
Did all kinds of mods like hooks and loops and balances as well as stern drive swing-away protectors etc.
Built spare tire holders and did bunk rails on trailers as well.
Title: Re: Stern Drive Question
Post by: 340mopar on January 14, 2016, 08:32:53 am
That's cool!

Feel free to post of send me any pics of ideas you like!!

I want to add some type of walkway from the truck to the deck, so I can launch and recover alone.
Title: Re: Stern Drive Question
Post by: ccstinger on January 17, 2016, 12:32:11 pm
stinger390x,

what do you use to protect the outdrives on trailering?  Do you use a transom saver of some sort?  Any pictures?

Han
Title: Re: Stern Drive Question
Post by: 340mopar on January 19, 2016, 09:25:23 am
at this time I use NOTHING.... :(

as I have just gotten the rig home, I have a lot of changes to use.  I need to devise a good method of securing them...

http://i.imgur.com/vhoWJxR.jpg (http://i.imgur.com/vhoWJxR.jpg)
Title: Re: Stern Drive Question
Post by: stinger390x on January 20, 2016, 04:42:16 pm
stinger390x,

what do you use to protect the outdrives on trailering?  Do you use a transom saver of some sort?  Any pictures?

Han

I extend the frames along the two sides and then make a hinged cross brace that snaps in place for trailering. When you want to launch, you pull a pin and swing away the bar.
I'll post pics of my buddies trailer that I modified just last summer.
Title: Re: Stern Drive Question
Post by: 340mopar on January 21, 2016, 08:10:41 am
I still need to get this monster moved forward
Title: Re: Stern Drive Question
Post by: stinger390x on January 28, 2016, 08:46:02 am
Suggestion........

Measure the weight of the tounge resting on a flat surface.
If it is less than 750 lbs then you have room to work.

If it is very low , such as 150lbs for example, then loosen the bolts on the vertical tounge rest and slide it forward in short increments and pull the boat forward. Ideally the sterns transom should be parallel to the bunk boards at their ends. I see you have about a foot until you reach this???
I understand this is NOT the designed trailer for your boat but yo can balance it out quite good for easy towing and safe operation. Ideal tounge weight depending on the class of your hitch and your tow vehicle, is a couple hundred pounds.
If you have a light truck and a heavy tounge weight you will effect the steering geometry of the front end. I pull with a Ford F-350 Dually with a class 5 Titan hitch, so I can load the heck out of it!
Title: Re: Stern Drive Question
Post by: 340mopar on January 28, 2016, 08:52:06 am
If it is very low , such as 150lbs for example, then loosen the bolts on the vertical tounge rest and slide it forward in short increments and pull the boat forward. Ideally the sterns transom
* Mine is bolted thru the steel of the trailer. 

should be parallel to the bunk boards at their ends. I see you have about a foot until you reach this???
* 10" on one side and 9" on the other  (Good Eye) but yes it need to move up a bit.

If you have a light truck and a heavy tounge weight you will effect the steering geometry of the front end. I pull with a Ford F-350 Dually with a class 5 Titan hitch, so I can load the heck out of it!
* I towed it home with a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 and she pulled like an absolute dream
Title: Re: Stern Drive Question
Post by: stinger390x on January 31, 2016, 09:03:45 am
Sounds good! Problem solved then.....

My buddy at the Marina had a Dodge as well. towed quite good but he traded it for a dually last year as the fuel mileage was not as good as advertised.
How is your fuel economy on your rig?
Title: Re: Stern Drive Question
Post by: 340mopar on February 01, 2016, 09:40:31 am
This was not my Truck, but .. I'm told it is 17-20 typically, and we saw very little difference while pulling the boat.
This was with the truck loaded down with equipment/tools and three adults.